Travel Archives | Artful Living Magazine https://artfulliving.com/category/travel/ The Magazine of the North Tue, 21 Jan 2025 19:03:25 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://artfulliving.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/favicon.jpg Travel Archives | Artful Living Magazine https://artfulliving.com/category/travel/ 32 32 184598046 A Pocket Guide to Backcountry Skiing in Japan https://artfulliving.com/backcountry-skiing-pocket-guide-japan/ Tue, 21 Jan 2025 18:58:28 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52754 Is backcountry skiing in Japan on your bucket list? Here’s what you need to know to make the most of this unparalleled outdoor excursion and find the best Japow the archipelago has to offer. Who To fully enjoy Japow, one should be at least an advanced intermediate, but expert skiers will get the most out […]

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Is backcountry skiing in Japan on your bucket list? Here’s what you need to know to make the most of this unparalleled outdoor excursion and find the best Japow the archipelago has to offer.


Who

To fully enjoy Japow, one should be at least an advanced intermediate, but expert skiers will get the most out of a trip like this. No previous backcountry experience is required, but an above-average fitness level is mandatory: think all day slog more so than Crossfit-type short interval.


Equipment

Alpine touring, Telemark or splitboard. Avalanche safety equipment including beacons, probe and shovel is mandatory. All of the above equipment is available for rent in Sapporo, Niseko or from your guide.


When to Go

They don’t call it Japanuary for nothing. The sweet spot for Japow is January 1 to February 15.


Where to Stay

If it’s your first time, you should probably base out of Hirafu, the main village of the Niseko United, which comprises four interconnected ski resorts: Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village and An’nupuri. Lodging options abound and your guide can help you to find the best fit for your budget and personal tastes. Last season, my guests stayed at Always Niseko, which is close to all the action and a good budget option. For those looking for a higher-end boutique hotel, check out Chalet Ivy or the Green Leaf.


Photography provided by Sushi Shin by Miyakawa, Niseko

Where to Eat

Hirafu offers everything from food trucks to fine dining.

Ichi Ichi Kitchen is a food truck located in the center of town with quick inexpensive offerings like takoyaki (octopus balls), okonomiyaki (savory pancakes) and other Japanese street foods.

Niseko Ramen Kazahana is known for its rich miso ramen with creamy, umami-laden broth and springy noodles. Don’t miss the “Niseko Black” ramen with squid ink.

Ebisutei is a small, intimate izakaya (pub) that serves traditional Japanese dishes, including yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), sashimi and tempura.

Sushi Shin by Miyakawa in the AYA Niseko hotel is perhaps the most prestigious and sought-after sushi experience in the area with a fixed menu that showcases the best of local Hokkaido seafood. The restaurant is sleek and minimalist, and you’ll eat at a counter made of hinoki (Japanese cypress) while the chef prepares the sushi right in front of you. Reservations are mandatory.


Backcountry Ski Guides

Niseko Mountain Guides 
Black Diamond Tours
Synnott Mountain Guides

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The Artful Stay: Casa de Campo https://artfulliving.com/casa-de-campo-dominican-republic-hotel-review-2025/ Tue, 21 Jan 2025 15:00:11 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52728 It’s 10 a.m. on a sunshine-dappled Friday in August, and I am riding shotgun on a golf cart tour of the legendary polo fields at Casa de Campo resort in the Dominican Republic. As Fernando Arata, a world-renowned polo player and the director of the resort’s Equestrian and Polo Center attempts to explain exactly what […]

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It’s 10 a.m. on a sunshine-dappled Friday in August, and I am riding shotgun on a golf cart tour of the legendary polo fields at Casa de Campo resort in the Dominican Republic. As Fernando Arata, a world-renowned polo player and the director of the resort’s Equestrian and Polo Center attempts to explain exactly what makes the fields here superior to virtually any others in the world — alchemy involving the perfect ratio of sunlight, water and dense paspalum Bermuda grass — his dog, a frisky seven-year-old collie mix, runs alongside us, jumping into and out of the cart, his tongue swinging in the breeze as the vehicle charges full speed across the polo fields without pause. “My dog, he has a good life,” says Arata, grinning widely as the happy pup hurls himself back onto the moving cart like a pole jumper.

Artful Living | Artful Stay: Casa de Campo

Photography provided by Casa de Campo

Wheeling into the stable area, we pass chickens, donkeys and a pig so large I suspect it might be some kind of giant forest hog. “It’s just a pig,” Arata says casually like he’s referring to a house cat, not a creature that looks like it might mistake me for a mid-morning snack (I’m told the humongous pigs, like all the other farm animals, are incredibly gentle). As Arata screeches to a halt in front of the petting zoo, the whir of the golf cart is replaced by a chorus of bleating farm animals. In addition to the aforementioned animals, there are goats, ponies, rabbits, roosters, sheep and turtles, among other creatures. “My kids come here every single day,” he says, rubbing a friendly mule’s nose. “The donkeys are super cool. My kids ride them [like horses].”

Wearing well-worn jeans, an untucked denim shirt and dusty brown stable boots, his long curly black hair tucked rakishly into a camo-print baseball cap, Arata looks like he stepped straight off central casting for a biopic on Nacho Figueras. He opens the gates so the animals can roam freely as we talk. “The petting zoo is one of the most popular places in the whole resort,” he says. “We just had J. Lo here with her kids. We’ve had Boris Johnson, Clinton. Everyone loves the petting zoo.” As we get ready to continue our tour, he turns and whistles loudly. As if summoned by Noah, all the animals quickly scamper back inside the gate.

We drive around another building and soon find ourselves face-to-face with some of the most athletic-looking horses I have ever seen in my life. If there is an equine equivalent to Jeremy Allen White’s shirtless Calvin Klein campaign, these prize polo horses are it. Their sinewy haunch muscles look like they’ve been carved from Carrera marble. “These horses are super trained,” explains Arata. “We are right in the middle of the season so they are in peak condition.” We pass more horses — the center houses over 220 — that belong to a famous polo player who owns a villa. “See these horses right here?” he says, pointing to three more absurdly toned polo horses. “These belong to a famous Latin singer. He’s super cool. One day, he called me up and said, ‘Fernando, please come to my house. I need three horses because I want to ride with two girls.’”

“‘Okay,’ I said. ‘I give you some —’”

“‘No, no, no, Fernando. I want to buy my horses. You have six hours to find some horses for me.’So I bought the horses. He rode them that one time and never came again,” he says with a laugh.

Unlike the “super cool” but also apparently very busy pop star, most visitors to Casa de Campo return to the magical resort — which just celebrated its 50th anniversary last year — again and again. And while the petting zoo remains a highlight, this family-friendly activity is just one of the resort’s many world-class amenities. Here, a snapshot of what you can expect.


The Setting

Nestled on the southern east coast of the Dominican Republic and sprawling across 7,000 lush acres bordered by the Caribbean Sea, Casa de Campo is home to three award-winning golf courses, private beaches and the charming Altos de Chavón — a replica of a 16th-century Mediterranean village perched approximately 300 feet above the Chavón River.

Strolling along Altos de Chavón’s cobblestone streets feels like stepping back in time. Each stone has been hand-cut, each wrought iron detail of the handcrafted wooden doors forged by hand. On the morning I visited, I began my tour with a brief ride on a very agreeable donkey. Farther into town, you’ll find shops flush with gorgeous handmade linens (I bought some beautiful guest towels at Tienda Batey’s that remind me of my trip every time I dry my hands), boutiques selling locally-made clothing, jewelry, and a plethora of quaint workshops selling artisanal crafts like pottery, ceramics and weaving. There are art galleries, Mediterranean-style restaurants, museums, a church and a 5,000-seat amphitheater that has played host to legends from Sinatra to Santana.


Claim to Fame

Since opening in the mid-1970s, Casa de Campo has been a magnet for celebrities and other A-listers. In addition to Sinatra, Jennifer Lopez and A-Rod, Bill Clinton and Boris Johnson, the resort was a favorite haunt of fashion icon Oscar de la Renta (he helped design many of the interiors and owned a villa here for many years). Micheal Jordan and Derek Jeter both held bachelor parties at Casa de Campo. Jim Clark, founder of Netscape, hosted his 70th birthday party here (a swank affair attended by actress Naomi Watts and Sir Richard Branson). George W. Bush, Pharrell, the Kardashians, and Beyonce and Jay-Z have all been. Drake filmed his “Started from the Bottom” music video in one of the most lavish villas at the resort (Punta Minitas).


Vibe

At Casa de Campo, the laid-back energy of the Caribbean is suffused with a kind of understated glamour. The resort exudes effortless elegance; every detail is considered yet nothing feels forced. Golf carts hum softly along palm-lined pathways, guests sip guava mojitos poolside under the shade of swaying palms and the evenings pulse with the gentle hum of live music (unless of course, the resort is hosting an international superstar like Sting or Elton John, in which case the air literally vibrates).


Amenities

Designed by the renowned golf course architect Pete Dye, the resort’s three courses — including the iconic Teeth of the Dog — have garnered international acclaim. Named the number one course in the Caribbean, Teeth of the Dog features seven holes that hug the rugged coastline, offering breathtaking views that will take the sting out of even the worst shank. In addition to world-class golf and the aforementioned Equestrian and Polo Center (beyond traditional polo, the center also offers horseback trail riding and “donkey polo” for kids), the resort also boasts a Racquet Center with 13 courts (I took my first padel tennis lesson here and am now obsessed), a 245-acre Shooting Center, a full-service Marina and yacht club and three private beaches with water sports galore (I snorkeled among the colorful reefs in the crystal waters off Minitas Beach and saw a fascinating pageant of tropical fish including my favorite: the dazzling, electric-blue yellowtail damselfish).


The Rooms

Accommodations at Casa de Campo are as diverse as the resort itself, ranging from chic, family-friendly guest rooms to palatial villas. In the Premiere Club, where I stayed, the suites are vast and meticulously appointed with natural materials and luxe, minimalist furnishings. The suite comes with your own private golf cart that can take you wherever you want to go on the property. But with your private terrace, a giant Kohler soaking tub and a super cozy king-size bed with 1000-thread count Egyptian linens, you may never want to leave your room. Meanwhile, the villas, complete with waterfront views, private pools, dedicated staff and, in at least one villa I visited, a fully soundproof disco club — are so lavish, it’s no wonder Drake chose to shoot a music video here.


Dining

With six signature restaurants, the resort’s dining options span the globe, from the refined Mediterranean flavors of La Caña by Il Circo to an array of fresh seafood at Minitas Beach Club (the linguine alle vongole was excellent). Nibble on paella as yachts sail by at La Casita at the Marina or go for a more rustic, candlelit vibe as you dive into pappardelle with mushrooms and truffle in the cave-like La Piazetta in Altos de Chavón. There is something for everyone here, and — attention, families — the accommodating staff at each restaurant will bend over backward to make sure even the pickiest eater leaves satisfied.


The Spa 

The spa at Casa de Campo is the ne plus ultra of holistic wellness, drawing inspiration from the island’s natural beauty and Ayurvedic traditions. Treatments incorporate indigenous ingredients and practices, from detoxifying mud wraps to soothing massages infused with local botanicals. Yoga sessions on the beach and meditation classes add another layer of Zen. After an 80-minute Himalayan salt stone massage followed by a light lunch by the pool, I left feeling as though I had passed the afternoon inside some gloriously refreshing ionizer.


Cost

Nightly rates for guest rooms start at approximately $600, while private villas range from $5,000 – $16,000 per night, depending on size and location.

Feature image photography provided by Casa de Campo | Showcases Villa Palmeres, one of the property’s private villas

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The Artful Stay: Passalacqua https://artfulliving.com/passalacqua-lake-como-italy-hotel-review/ Wed, 15 Jan 2025 17:48:35 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52704 All products featured on ArtfulLiving.com are independently selected by our editors. We may earn commission on items you choose to buy. Imagine gliding across the deep blue waters of Lake Como in a vintage speedboat, glass of sparkling prosecco in hand, mesmerized by all the historical estates dotting the lush landscape. This is just one of […]

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Imagine gliding across the deep blue waters of Lake Como in a vintage speedboat, glass of sparkling prosecco in hand, mesmerized by all the historical estates dotting the lush landscape. This is just one of the awe-inspiring activities guests can take part in during a stay at Passalacqua, a once private 18th-century villa turned five-star hotel, where everyone feels like a movie star in a 1960s James Bond film. “The reason this hotel flourishes so fabulously is because it feels like someone’s home,” says Valentina De Santis, whose family, owners of the iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo, snapped up the estate at auction seven years ago and spent three years restoring the property. “We recognized the need for Passalacqua to be shared, so we created a boutique hotel where the Italian concept of accoglienza, the act of being welcomed, is core to its mission.” As soon as you step foot on the five-acre property, surrounded by centuries-old cypress and cedar trees, you’ll appreciate how lucky you are to be there. “The feeling is known as villeggiatura, an art of travel offering guests a true home away from home, a place that is as wonderful as you imagined yet with room to still astonish and amaze.”


Photography provided by Passalacqua

Setting

Located half an hour’s drive from Switzerland, Passalacqua sits above Lake Como in the picturesque lakeside village of Moltrasio. Visitors’ senses shift into overdrive as soon as they enter the estate’s wrought iron gates, thanks to the fragranced rose bushes, jasmine shrubs and 15 babbling fountains. To soak up the lake views upon arrival, guests are encouraged to rest on the grand stone steps outfitted with cushions by Guido Toschi or to take a seat in the bright orange 1950s Fiat Spiaggina parked in the garden. The urge to never leave Passalacqua is pervasive, but it’s worth exploring the hotel’s hometown of Moltrasio, where you’ll discover quintessential Lake Como terraced houses, a main square featuring a statue of the famous Passalacqua resident and opera composer Vincenzo Bellini, and the beautiful frescoes and Romanesque-Lombard style architecture of the 11th-century Church of Sant’Agata. Moltrasio is also known for its quaint restaurants offering traditional pastas, local fish, pizzas and gelato.


Photography provided by Passalacqua

Vibe

Passalacqua exudes elegance, history and a no-expense-spared attitude with a magnificent view of Lake Como. Think White Lotus meets Succession meets Casino Royale. It’s a place where you can feel equally comfortable sitting in solitude, indulging in discreet people watching or socializing with new friends from all over the world. While the experience is pure luxe, the vibe is laid-back, with guests encouraged to chat with the chef about the evening’s menu while helping themselves to a snack in the kitchen.


Photography provided by Passalacqua/Stefan Giftthaler

History

Passalacqua was built by Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua during the 18th century, on land that was once the property of Pope Innocent XI. Since then, the estate has been owned by a cast of characters, including a Swedish baroness, a Hungarian philosopher and an American investment banker who put the villa up for auction in 2018. The De Santis family — Paolo, Antonella and their daughter Valentina, were the winning bidders and soon began their passion project of restoring the grand villa with painstaking attention to detail. Prior to the hotel opening in 2022, Valentina worked with local artisans and prominent generational Italian companies to ensure the highest quality craftsmanship, while her parents traveled up and down the country visiting auction houses and antique fairs to procure the period-perfect treasures that fill the estate.


Photography provided by Passalacqua

Claim to Fame

Lake Como has long been known as a playground for the famous and powerful and Passalacqua is no exception, having opened its doors to its fair share of who’s who including French statesman Napoleon Bonaparte and England’s prime minister Winston Churchill. But the visitor whose presence is felt most at the villa is composer Vincenzo Bellini, who crafted his best-known works — including the operas La Straniera and La Sonnambula — while living at Passalacqua from 1829 to 1833. The space where he worked is now called the Suite Bellini and includes a music room in his honor (other rooms in the hotel are named after Bellini characters). In more recent times, Passalacqua has welcomed American celebrities George Clooney, John Legend, and Ben Affleck and Jennifer Lopez (who spent part of their honeymoon at the estate). And the hotel’s unmatched hospitality is as impressive as its high-profile guest list. Dressed in chic uniforms designed by luxury Italian fashion brand Giuliva Heritage, the hotel staff strives to make every visitor feel like they’re part of an extended family. The dedicated and loyal personnel is just one of the reasons Passalacqua was crowned the Best Hotel in the World in 2023 by The World’s 50 Best Hotels Academy.


Photography provided by Passalacqua/Ruben Ortiz

Amenities

Many guests come to Passalacqua to experience the Italian concept of dolce far niente (doing sweet nothing) and are content just swimming in the lake’s clear blue waters or sitting by the pool watching boats sail by. But for those who prefer to stay busy, there’s plenty to do, starting with the hotel’s “Every Day is a Gift” series, which promotes a daily activity such as a walking tour of Moltrasio, a wine and cheese tasting, lessons in mixology and floral design, as well as gelato-, pizza- and pasta-making classes. There’s a clay tennis court, gravel bocce court and an open-air cinema for outdoor fun, as well as two vintage Riva boats (guests can book a personalized tour with a knowledgeable captain who will happily point out George Clooney’s home as well as other famous and historical residences). Considered prime real estate for visitors, the pool area features moss-colored sun loungers and tasseled parasols created by fashion designer J.J. Martin (founder of La DoubleJ). Nearby, a 200-year-old greenhouse, known as the Winter Garden, has been transformed into a colorful outdoor lunch area and bar — the perfect spot for an afternoon Aperol spritz and some salty snacks. For a five-star hotel, Passalacqua is shockingly kid-friendly, with little ones regularly being fussed over by the staff and treated to child-size slippers, robes and toys upon arrival. Pets are welcome too, with bowls, beds and pet sitters on call.


Photography provided by Passalacqua

The Rooms

Passalacqua’s 24 rooms and suites are spread out over three buildings: The Villa’s 12 suites showcase restored frescoes, handblown Murano glass chandeliers and Persian rugs; the eight suites in Palazz, a former stable located behind the main villa, have a more bucolic look thanks to exposed wood beams and textured damask walls; and the four Casa al Lago cottages down by the lake include private gardens and outdoor dining areas. To make each room feel like you’ve stepped back in time, the owners have hidden modern conveniences, including handcrafted steamer trunks at the end of each bed to disguise the TVs, built-in speakers that greet guests with classical Italian music as they enter their rooms and mirrored chests that disguise the in-suite minibars. Bathrooms include Philippe Starck–designed double sinks, heated floors, towel-warming racks and three Dyson hair appliances (the Airwrap, Supersonic dryer and Corrale straightener), which are stored in leather boxes. Everything has been carefully planned out, from the gold room keys featuring the Passalacqua coat of arms to the diffusers emitting the hotel’s signature fragranceAqua Como 1787,’ which blends garden scents with fresh lake breezes. But it’s the Beltrami bed linens with Norwegian white birch fibers that are said to be softer than silk, that guests dream about long after they’ve returned home.


Photography provided by Passalacqua/Ruben Ortiz

The Spa + Fitness 

Two treatment rooms are located near a calming meditation area featuring Viennese straw panels, palm trees, Moroccan lamps and bamboo lounge chairs. After a relaxing facial or massage, guests can make their way through an 18th-century tunnel (which was once used as a passageway for visitors and deliveries arriving from the lake), created out of Moltrasio stone and lit by lamps, to reach the vaulted grottoes containing a sauna, steam bath and experience shower. It’s here where they’ll also find a 59-foot-long indoor pool with views of the gardens, lake and mountains. Weather permitting, massages can be enjoyed in an outdoor pavilion and yoga practiced under the trees in the Magnolia Garden. On one of the hotel’s terraces among the olive groves, workout enthusiasts will find a fitness room filled with Technogym equipment.


Photography provided by Passalacqua/Azzurra Primavera

Dining 

At Passalacqua, the staff pick fresh ingredients daily from the groves and gardens and rely on local farmers and fishermen for the rest. Viviana Varese, the cuoca di casa (in-house chef) is one of Italy’s leading female chefs and no stranger to fame — she once starred in her own reality TV show. Varese’s cuisine is inspired by the aristocratic haute cuisine of the 18th and 19th centuries beginning with breakfast, a feast spanning two dining rooms and featuring hot dishes made to order, warm baked breads, fresh fruit, pastries, cheeses, smoked fish and eggs from the hotel’s hens. A three-tiered tray featuring bomboloni (Italian doughnuts filled with custard), espresso granitas (a frozen dessert made with espresso and sugar) and maritozzi (sweet buns bursting with whipped cream) are set at guests’ tables every morning. Lunch takes on a laid-back vibe with staff manning an Italian pizza oven and outdoor grill. Dinner, which is often served al fresco under candlelight and colorful cupula-shaped awnings and Moroccan-style tents, features traditional Italian dishes such as sweet-flavored sea bream carpaccio, oversize ravioli filled with roast meat and duck breast with an earthy barbequed beetroot. The fare is elegantly presented on colorful Ginori 1735 china, including the menu’s pièce de résistance: mouthwatering crêpes Suzette. With a staff at the ready, guests can enjoy meals anywhere on the property, including poolside, down by the lake or in the dining room.


Photography provided by Passalacqua

Cost

Rooms start at $1,200 per night + tax, which includes breakfast for two.

 

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The 6 Most Luxurious Hotel Suites in the World https://artfulliving.com/top-luxurious-hotel-suites-travel-2025/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:10:25 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52380 All products featured on ArtfulLiving.com are independently selected by our editors. We may earn commission on items you choose to buy. I still remember my first. The roaring fireplace. The sumptuous sheets. The bubbling bath. I’d splurged for a private bungalow at San Ysidro Ranch, a five-star boutique hotel in the foothills of Montecito, California […]

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I still remember my first. The roaring fireplace. The sumptuous sheets. The bubbling bath. I’d splurged for a private bungalow at San Ysidro Ranch, a five-star boutique hotel in the foothills of Montecito, California (where one might rub shoulders with Oprah and Harry and Meghan), and soon after that, I became a certified hotel snob. Shouldn’t every hotel suite offer deep soaking tubs, outdoor rainfall showers, king-sized four-poster beds and a collection of antiques and artwork sourced from around the world? As the adage goes, once you go luxury, you never go back.

So, take it from us: 2025 is the year of aspirational travel. Now worth an estimated $1.5 trillion, the global luxury travel market has boomed in recent years, growing as travelers seek high-end experiences in bucket list destinations.

Not only do travelers want to visit exotic locales and embark on once-in-a-lifetime excursions, but they also want to do so in the most spectacular settings. And with so much competition in the high-end travel market, the world’s top hotels have begun introducing showstopping suites that can only be described as dream-fulfilling. From amenities like 24-hour butler service and personal wine sommeliers to private 10-person cinema rooms and Michelin-starred dining, these suites prove there’s no better time to travel than now.

Luxury can be defined in myriad ways. For some, it might mean an encounter on the annual wildebeest migration route in the Serengeti, as one might enjoy during a stay in Singita’s Milele (Swahili for “forever”) Villa. For others, it translates to a primary bathroom in The Colony Hotel’s Goop Villa, complete with pink and green Botticelli marble and no shortage of fan-favorite Goop beauty products. Or perhaps it’s a professional-grade recording studio with your own grand piano (the Cave Royale suite at Six Senses Ibiza)? Or, better yet, a 1,000-square-foot private garden in the heart of the City of Lights (Saint James Paris).

Whether you’re looking to commune with nature, scratch an itch for extreme adventure or jetset in style with your closest group of girlfriends, you will find everything you could possibly dream of in this year’s roundup of Artful Living‘s most luxurious hotel suites around the world.


Rendering by FORESTIS

Forestis Dolomites

From $21,052 per night for the Forestis Villa (up to 10 guests)

Located opposite the Italian Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site, Forestis is a former tuberculosis sanatorium turned ultra-luxurious mountaintop hideaway with a new villa that debuted in December. Envisioned as a secluded hideaway that blends an intimate connection to the landscape with the natural beauty of the Dolomites, the Armin Sader–designed villa maintains the integrity of its historic roots but with modern amenities.

Occupying a 19th-century structure originally built by the Austrian monarchy as a residence for the doctors of the neighboring sanatorium, the five-bedroom Forestis Villa “builds upon the house’s original purpose as a place of healing by carefully handling the landscape and adopting a clean architectural language that lets nature shine through,” said Günther Kofler, hotel manager.

Surrounded by some of the most stunning and unobstructed nature scapes the world has to offer, Forestis is devoted to the four elements of the Dolomites: clear water, pure air, ample sunny days and mild climate. A one-of-a-kind, nature-inspired wellbeing refuge, Forestis pays homage to Celtic wisdom, offering treatments based on the principles of the Forestis Tree Circle, forest cuisine that emphasizes ingredients sourced from the earth and local farmers, and an endless array of adventures.

Rendering by FORESTIS

In keeping with the traditional design of alpine holiday residences — and reflecting a commitment to sustainability — the villa features historical design elements like solid-wood furniture sourced from old parlors; refurbished interior doors and wooden floors; wood beams dating back to 1912; an abundance of natural materials, including wood from the forest, regional stone, glass and lime plaster, local sand and clay floors; and box-type wooden windows crafted from heritage design templates. “The minimal, nature-inspired interior ensures the backdrop of spectacular views is the villa’s main focal point and design element,” said Kofler.

That said, there’s still a lot to appreciate beyond the view. A nature-inspired Celtic spa has its own treatment room, heated indoor-outdoor pool, sauna, steam bath, relaxation space and Technogym-outfitted fitness center. A fully-equipped kitchen is restocked each morning to guests’ desires. There’s even an outdoor garden and a cinema. The villa is an “opulent setting with infinite opportunities for personalization,” said Kofler. “Guests staying here will be the curators of their most perfect stay.”

Rendering by FORESTIS

Think personal chef services, in-villa spa treatments, and ski-in, ski-out access to the Plose ski region. Guests receive dedicated 24-hour butler service, VIP concierge, laundry service, a daily guide for all outdoor activities and a trainer for fitness sessions, “ushering in a new era of hospitality and capabilities for the hotel,” said Kofler. And while Forestis is typically an adults-only (14+) property, the villa will be open to guests of all ages. “The villa will give guests the same luxury and opulent experience as the rest of the Forestis resort in a more exclusive setting,” explained Kofler.

“From its refined simplicity and nature-inspired design to a spa that harnesses the healing elements of the forest, every detail of the villa has been thoughtfully crafted to epitomize sustainable luxury and historical charm,” said Kofler.


Photography by Singita

Singita Milele

From $27,300 per villa per night (up to 10 guests)

A consistent and enduring shift in travel over the last few years inspired hospitality group Singita to debut Milele in May, a new and expansive private villa in the Serengeti ecosystem of Africa. “Guests are increasingly seeking space and personalized service,” said Singita Public Relations Manager Lisa Carey. “The demand for exclusive-use properties prompted the creation of Milele.”

The name perfectly encapsulates the villa’s setting and the vast expanses of unspoiled savanna that surround it. The Serengeti spans the Mara and Arusha regions of Tanzania, and the protected area includes approximately 30,000 kilometers of land, including the Serengeti National Park and several game reserves.

Intentionally designed to minimize the barriers between guests and nature — visually, acoustically and physically — the villa celebrates Africa’s creative energy and wildlife through locally sourced design and craftsmanship.

“We have proudly made and sourced about 90% of the items locally,” said Carey. “All of the pieces have a beautiful narrative, and it’s been a remarkable experience to work on a project with such a focus on local African art and furniture.”

The villa features a collection of South African works by contemporary multimedia visual artist Trevor Stuurman, mirror and light-based installation sculpture artist duo Water Dixon, Cape Town–based abstract artist Tarien Bruwer, weaver Marguerite Roux and more.

“Sourcing is a core consideration when conceiving and creating these spaces,” explained Carey. “Our teams feel a sense of responsibility to choose and support local artists and artisans, even though the process can be more challenging. Our collaborators are crucial to this and bring soul and a sense of place to our spaces.”

Photography by Singita

Accommodating up to 10 guests in five individually designed suites inspired by the region’s most iconic species, the villa comes with a dedicated staff, complete with a field guide, chef, butler and housekeeping team. In addition to an infinity pool overlooking the Serengeti plains, there are four separate spa pools, a 10-person cinema room and a fully-stocked wine cellar with award-winning wines.

Singita’s highly skilled wine team in Stellenbosch, the Western Cape Winelands, is responsible for managing the selection and service of all Singita wines. Guests can even order their favorite wines from their trip to enjoy at home, either packaged as checked luggage or shipped directly. “Personalized wine tastings in the villa’s temperature-controlled cellar are a favorite guest experience,” says Carey.

Despite its remote location in the heart of the wilderness, the villa offers unsurpassed luxury. Set high on Sasakwa Hill with uninterrupted views of the endless plains below, a front-row seat to the Great Migration and year-round game-viewing experiences, the villa is surrounded by 350,000 acres of the world-renowned Grumeti Reserve in northern Tanzania. Here, visitors can experience exclusive encounters on the annual wildebeest migration route in the Serengeti, along with game drives, community visits, wine experiences, guided safari walks, bird watching and more.

“A golden thread throughout every Singita experience is a deep reverence for the wild and its healing power,” said Carey. “Singita’s lodges, camps and villas across Africa have been intentionally designed to offer guests the freedom to reflect and awaken their senses, inviting a sense of wonder and wholeness that comes from truly leaning into nature. At Singita Milele, a contemporary villa pays tribute to its surroundings through design and an extraordinary experience of the Serengeti.”


Photography by Carmel Brantley

The Colony Palm Beach

From $4,000 per night for the two-bedroom Goop Villa

In a heartfelt tribute to the elegance and romance of Paris and the natural beauty of Palm Beach, Florida, The Colony Hotel debuted the 2,524-square-foot Goop Villa in October 2023. Reimagined by Gwyneth Paltrow–founded wellness and lifestyle brand Goop and designed by New York City–based architecture and design firm Ronen Lev, the villa mirrors the modern, feminine Parisian aesthetic that Goop is renowned for, blended with the vibrant spirit of Palm Beach.

“Fundamentally, both Goop and The Colony are female-led businesses driven by personal vision, passion and curiosity,” said Sarah J. Wetenhall, owner and CEO of The Colony Hotel, Palm Beach. “At their core, both brands are committed to intentionality and wellness, while helping people live more beautiful and connected lives in an immersive, multi-generational fashion. We say that The Colony is more than a hotel, it is a way of life. And Goop is a brand that is also committed to the betterment of people’s lifestyles. In many ways, collaborating with Goop was a natural fit.”

Materiality is a glamorous thread in the villa design, which incorporates rattan, marble, antiqued mirror and mohair, while tones of blush, gray and green nod to Goop and The Colony Hotel’s signature hues. The design pays homage to the villa’s dual influences, seamlessly combining woven textures and floral motifs.

As you enter the villa, arched elements and organic forms create a visual narrative that celebrates fluidity and grace, exemplified by the Goop x Fromental botanical wallpaper. The villa is filled with a curated selection of designs from the online gallery Invisible Collection and its artisans, like Atelier Vime, Pierre Augustin Rose and Sandra Benhamou. Select furniture and fixtures come from design collaborators CB2 and Furniture Marolles, along with handcrafted wool rugs from Armadillo.

“I am absolutely obsessed with the marble and stonework throughout the villa,” said Wetenhall. “My personal favorite is the pink and green Botticelli slabs in the primary bathroom vanity and shower. They are the epitome of all things The Colony.”

Photography by Carmel Brantley

Throughout the space, Goop opted for paint by Farrow & Ball, and Monogram appliances and fixtures by Brizo. A lofted space features a wicker daybed and a Re-jute Ruggable rug created in partnership with Goop. Guests will also find accents from heritage Palm Beach brands, like a hand-painted palm motif mural in the powder room by Lilly Pulitzer Studio and coffee table accessories from Cartier. Tappan Collective curated art is sprinkled throughout, including original works from abstract minimalist artist Ryan Snow and painter Marleigh Culver.

“The Goop Villa has a completely different look and feel than our other redesigned villas,” said Wetenhall. “It is also totally different from the guest rooms in the main hotel. Although the materials used are similar, like linen, jute, florals and restful colors, the effect is unique to anything else on the property, with a design language that leans more minimal, modern and earth-toned. Guests are drawn to this space’s modern, feminine, calming nature.”

Wetenhall and Goop aimed to design a space that showcases Palm Beach through the Goop perspective. Wetenhall envisioned a villa that would serve as a holistic retreat, where guests could immerse themselves in The Colony and the Goop ways of life. With that in mind, the bathrooms are stocked with Goop beauty favorites, including the Microderm Instant Glow Exfoliator, the All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream, the Cloudberry Exfoliating Jelly Cleanser and the Nourishing Repair Body Butter.

“Launching the Goop Villa allowed us to celebrate the intersection of lifestyle and hospitality distinctively, providing guests with an opportunity to experience Goop’s philosophy firsthand,” said Wetenhall.


Photography by @mistertripper

Saint James Paris

From $1,890 (one bedroom) to $4,700 for the Villa apartments; from $10,500 per night for the Longchamp Apartment (up to 7 guests)

Originally built in 1892, the same period in which French Emperor Napoleon III commissioned a vast public works program to renovate Central Paris into the distinctive look it has today (led by Georges-Eugène Haussmann), Parisian hotel Saint James Paris was once home to the Thiers Foundation, supporting young students with scholarships and comfortable living conditions. In the 1980s, the building became the gentlemen’s club Saint James Club of Paris and, as of 1991, has been run as both a hotel and club (the property joined Relais & Châteaux in 2011).

The hotel features a mix of historical design eras throughout, including neoclassical, Greco-Roman, oriental and art deco. Reimagined by French maximalist interior designer Laura Gonzalez starting in 2020, the decor features whimsical juxtapositions (like cherry blossom wallpaper mixed with Laurel & Hardy bedside tables).

Photography by @mistertripper

“These would be the styles typically mixed in wealthy Parisian homes,” explained Nicolas Egloff, the director of sales and marketing. “Most of the walls are covered in Pierre Frey fabrics — white wool, in particular — and there are Pierre Frey carpets with Greco-Roman designs in the suites that do not have a Versailles hardwood floor. Wall lamps are the famous mushrooms from Jean Roger, and ceiling lamps are original plaster creations from artist Patrice Dangel, making Saint James Paris a tribute to French craftsmanship.”

Part-château, part-family estate — just steps from the Trocadero, L’Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Élysées — the hotel is designed to evoke the spirit of a private collector who’d brought home souvenirs from their travels. Gonzalez used panoramic wallpapers, historic architectural elements, ornate furnishings and a vibrant mix of colors and textiles to achieve the effect.

In 2023, Saint James Paris and Gonzalez unveiled Villa Saint James, a private townhouse with four luxury-serviced apartments next to the property. Designed as a true pied-à-terre, the apartments of Villa Saint James combine the intimacy of a private home with the comfort of a luxury hotel. Guests have access to all the services of Saint James Paris, including Bellefeuille (the Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Grégory Garimbay), the Library Bar (surrounded by leather-bound books and the original winding staircase from the Thiers Foundation library), a terrace and garden, the Guerlain spa and fitness and wellness activities.

Photography by @mistertripper

Within the villa, the nearly 1,400-square-foot Longchamp Apartment is “a truly hidden two-story suite that’s peaceful and independent with a private garden in the most exclusive area of Paris,” said Egloff. Named for the famed Rue de Longchamp in the fashionable 16th district, the pied-à-terre combines Parisian chic and privacy and can accommodate up to seven guests. The living room faces the suite’s 1,000-square-foot green oasis, while the bedroom overlooks the architectural jewel of Saint James Paris.

In 2021, the hotel relaunched its wellness program with a two-story Guerlain Spa, which includes an indoor swimming pool with views of the Parisian skyline. Its aesthetic is reminiscent of the Greco-Roman thermal baths. In 2024, Bellefeuille restaurant was awarded the Green Star by the Michelin Guide, a nod to its environmentally friendly gastronomy and the ongoing efforts of the Saint James team to source local and seasonal products from places like their organic farm at the Nonville estate in Île-de-France.

“Saint James Paris sets itself apart by being both a hotel and a private club,” said Egloff. “Set in a private mansion in a walled garden that is a natural protected area in Paris, it is an oasis of peace and privacy in the city’s chicest district.”


Photography provided by Six Senses Ibiza

Six Senses Ibiza

From $3,150 per night for the Cave Royale Suite (up to 3 guests)

French astrologer Nostradamus once predicted Ibiza, Spain, would be Earth’s final refuge. Since the 1950s, Ibiza has attracted a specific type of free-spirited seeker: artists, creatives and musicians who have chosen to settle in the northern tip of the island, where a live-and-let-live attitude pays tribute to Ibiza’s past.

At Six Senses Ibiza, the first BREEAM-certified resort (one of the world’s leading sustainability property assessment methods) in the Balearics, the entire property was envisioned and created by Jonathan Leitersdorf, who specializes in blending luxury with local authenticity, said Oriol Juvé de Yebra, Six Senses Ibiza’s resort manager. It’s the ideal setting for profound spiritual experiences rooted in local culture, celebrating the music, art, sustainable fashion, wellness and spirituality that has become synonymous with the island.

Photography provided by Six Senses Ibiza

The pulse of the hotel’s effortless vibe is the Cave Royale Suite, a 3,368-square-foot respite built into the coastal cliffs of Xarraca Bay that pays homage to the Ibizan bohemian scene. With design elements that reflect both luxury and a strong sense of place — think a custom, oversized bed and a high-end sound system by McIntosh valued at $156,000 — “the collaboration with Jonathan ensured the suite feels both opulent and grounded in Ibiza’s coastal beauty,” said Juvé de Yebra.

Sustainable furniture pieces, a plunge pool and earth-toned finishes echo Ibiza’s natural landscape. Locally sourced stone, artisan-crafted light fixtures and spa-inspired bathrooms add layers of elegance. A secret door leads to a private professional-grade recording studio below the suite (with its own grand piano!) for when creativity strikes, no matter the time of day. The suite is built partially into the cliffside and combines dramatic Mediterranean views with a sense of privacy.

“I’m particularly captivated by the seamless integration of luxury and natural beauty, embodied by the suite’s unique design and innovative features,” said Juvé de Yebra. “The spacious, custom-designed bed and McIntosh sound system are my favorites. They bring both comfort and an elevated sense of atmosphere. The views of Xarraca Bay are another spectacular highlight.”

Photography provided by Six Senses Ibiza

An array of unique experiences helps guests immerse themselves in the property. Try a private yoga class on the suite’s deck or stand-up paddleboarding in the bay. Join the culinary team as they harvest fresh organic fruit and vegetables from the hotel’s farm, Can Tanca, just north of Santa Gertrudis, then enjoy a hand-picked meal. Spot dolphins during a half or full-day trip to Formentera, a tiny island off Ibiza’s south coast. Catch a movie at Six Senses’ open-air rooftop cinema with individual bean bags, blankets and gourmet popcorn. Learn how to make your own toothpaste, deodorant or lip balm — all with natural ingredients and plastic-free reusable packaging — at the hotel’s Zero Waste Workshop. Take a sunset kayak tour.

The resort also has a dedicated sustainability fund made up of .5% of total revenue, supporting local organizations that make a positive social and environmental impact. The property saved 40% of carbon emissions each year by producing its own renewable energy and used 298 solar panels to generate 10% of its electricity needs. A full-time sustainability team drives the hotel’s environmental efforts and continues to develop new initiatives to minimize Six Senses’ ecological impact and act as a regenerative force for good. “When you travel here, you not only arrive at a destination, you travel to a different frequency,” said Juvé de Yebra.


Photography by Alex Moling

Eriro Alpine Hideaway

From $3,123 per night for the Himil Suite (up to 4 guests)

In July 2024, the Eriro Alpine Hideaway opened on the Austria-Germany border in Ehrwald, Austria, at the foot of Zugspitze, the highest peak of Germany’s Wetterstein Mountains. Designed by South Tyrolean–architect Martin Gruber, the intimate property, boasting just nine exclusive suites, is handcrafted with locally sourced, organic materials like stone and wood, paired with hand-knotted sheep’s wool and a nature-inspired color palette of gray, green and brown elements. It sits at 1,550 meters (more than 5,000 feet) above sea level.

Gruber deliberately rejects ornate decor to illustrate the idea of simplicity, a respectful attitude derived from building in the alpine region. Floor-to-ceiling windows and doors flood the space with natural light and position the pristine mountain surroundings as the centerpiece of Eriro’s design philosophy.

Nowhere is that more clear than in the Himil Suite on the property’s top floor, where guests enjoy unique elements like handmade lamps from stone collected in a nearby riverbed and water faucets crafted from repurposed driftwood branches. Dual terraces allow guests to observe the mountain views from multiple vantage points — like the private sauna or standalone bath carved from a single block of pine from the surrounding area. The calming shades further complement the landscape. A pitched ceiling allows for extra natural light, and a telescope in the room lets guests take advantage of starry night skies. The hotel dims all exterior lighting beginning at 10 p.m. to enhance the views.

Photography by Alex Moling

“An essential part of the Eriro experience is immersing guests completely in nature. This allows them to feel like they’re in the mountains and meadows, even when staying in the suite,” said Eriro General Manager Henning A. Schaub. “While large [it accommodates up to four people], the suite still offers a feeling of coziness and warmth. We emphasize the immersion in nature by not incorporating televisions in the rooms to avoid distracting guests from the surroundings. They learn to find more peace observing the movement of the trees and the clouds floating across the mountaintops, a view they’ll never be able to see and feel through a screen.”

Upon arrival, the hotel gives each guest a pair of sheep’s wool socks to add an extra sense of hominess and comfort to any stay. Management recommends guests wear them when walking around the property to experience the tactile moments of uneven and natural floors and to feel fully immersed and grounded. Almost all of the architectural elements throughout the property were crafted by hand, including the 4,000 cotter pins (a locking mechanism used to secure other fasteners or bolts in place) and the long table in the lobby.

The interior is embellished with woven, bound and carved wood, pure sheep’s wool carpets and handmade coat hangers by designer Huanzn. Even the bathtubs are crafted by hand from tree trunks and sealed with resin. Hand-in-hand with the commitment to live each day with respect to nature, the design pays homage to the alpine ecosystem, emphasizing simplicity and craftsmanship.

Photography by Alex Moling

Fresh, locally sourced ingredients, favoring the shortest-distance delivery routes and traditional Tyrolean recipes inspire the kitchen’s creative cuisine. Whether coarse and robust, like the grilled butterflied trout glazed with a fish jus, cold-pressed grapeseed oil and tomato sugo or mild and delicate, like the alpine herb dumplings with forest mushrooms, dishes reflect the moods of the mountain. Served on wood, stone or in the form of a nest, each dish is a culinary work of art.

Nature’s rhythm, says Schaub, dictates how guests will spend their time, from the wellness treatments, like the fan-favorite detox massage using nettle oil from freshly brewed nettle tea, to the activities, including barefoot hikes through the forest moss, working with stone, wood and other materials from the mountains or drawing the crystal clear, refreshing water from the mountain spring and carrying it home. Experiences, much like the property itself, are meant to be savored with all the senses.

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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How Women-Led Trekking is Reshaping the Inca Trail https://artfulliving.com/inca-trail-quechua-womens-empowerment-peru/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:09:31 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52370 A patchwork of terraced fields, ancient ruins and Andean vistas roll past the panoramic windows of PeruRail’s Vistadome train, which chugs in the direction of Machu Picchu. Suddenly, the cars grind to a halt in the middle of the jungle. We’re at KM 104, the starting point of the precipitous citadel’s so-called “short” one-day Inca […]

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A patchwork of terraced fields, ancient ruins and Andean vistas roll past the panoramic windows of PeruRail’s Vistadome train, which chugs in the direction of Machu Picchu. Suddenly, the cars grind to a halt in the middle of the jungle. We’re at KM 104, the starting point of the precipitous citadel’s so-called “short” one-day Inca Trail — which, speaking as a casual hiker, is enough of a challenge at seven miles long.

Photography provided by INKATERRA

No sooner had I hopped off into the wilderness than four beaming Quechua women, our porters for the trip and part of the Indigenous community that many consider the closest descendants of the Incas, greeted our small tour group. They quickly distribute water and the weight in their bags. They wear no-nonsense hiking boots complemented by embroidered azure blouses and the tall, jaunty felt hats that are ubiquitous in this region. Decked out in head-to-toe REI, I can’t help feeling simultaneously underdressed and underprepared. It’s a relief to have these experienced, confident women by my side as we brace ourselves to ascend nearly 2,000 feet to the legendary “Lost City of the Incas,” rediscovered by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham and native farmers in 1911.

Hiking the Inca Trail isn’t a trek you want to — or even can — do alone. Since 2001, the Peruvian government has required that anyone on the historic path, a route of pilgrimage to Machu Picchu used by the Inca (or Emperor) in the 15th century, be accompanied by a licensed guide to protect the heritage site from the unsafe and destructive effects of overcrowding.

Peru, Llama Trek, Local Woman with Llama

Only 500 permits are available per day. Among those, 300 go to the diligent porters and guides who haul heavy loads packed with water, oxygen tanks and other necessary supplies, helping travelers like me make our way along the winding, rocky path. Because of this, it’s not unusual for the coveted passes to sell out months in advance.

Until recently, only men were hired for the job; women traditionally weren’t considered fit for such brawny, masculine work in Peru’s patriarchal society. Now, that’s gradually changing thanks to initiatives like Abercrombie & Kent’s Inca Trail Women’s Project, which launched in 2021. This program provides professional training and jobs to Quechua women who often face limited economic opportunities in remote Andean villages. Other companies, such as Evolution Treks Peru and Mother Earth Treks, also offer adventures geared specifically toward female tourists.

Marisol Velasco Espinoza, an accomplished Abercrombie & Kent tour guide who led the first group for the Inca Trail Women’s Project, has broken barriers all her life. Guiding since 2011, she has completed the four-day Inca Trail 500 times and can speed through the one-day route in a mere two hours. For Espinoza, who celebrates the progress Peru is making in gender equality, the Inca Trail project feels personal.

“I finished my studies very young and thought that no one would trust me because of my appearance — young, small and female,” she says. “That’s why I tripled my effort; I wanted to prove to myself I could make it. I never liked the idea of someone being faster than me in my mountains. Guiding the women from the Village of the Flowers on their first trip to the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu was very important to me because I identify with them. This program helps reduce the machismo idea that only men have the right to work. It teaches everyone to raise awareness that there should be mutual respect between men and women.”

When I ask the Quechua porters — Cintia Amalia Chaucca Ramos, Elizabeth Ttito, Sonia Quispe Quispe and Emilda Ramos Sallo — what they most want travelers to take away from this experience, the answer is clear: that women are every bit as strong as men. But they also wish to share their community’s customs. “[I hope people will] learn about our traditional clothing, our Quechua language [and] our dances,” says Ramos.

Before the big climb, we do just that while exploring their homeland in the Sacred Valley’s Ccor Ccor District. Once the center of the Inca Empire, this fertile farmland remains a stronghold of Quechua culture.

Masterful weavers, the women demonstrate how their ancestors have used textiles like alpaca and vicuña wool (a rare and impossibly soft raw fiber far exceeding the price of cashmere) to create fine yet hardy clothing for centuries. Together, we enjoy a joyous warm-up hike accompanied by local musicians along the terraced hills, stopping for a surprise picnic of fruit and coca tea — an herbal remedy that’s popularly used for altitude sickness. Later, a local shaman reads our fortunes in the drink’s soggy leaves.

The next day, as I stumble up 200 steps at nearly 9,000 feet above sea level to reach Wiñayhuayna, a stunning archaeological site that’s only accessible for those who take the Inca Trail on the way to Machu Picchu, a porter grabs my hand, willing me to the top. We pause to admire the stone architecture, intact and hugging the mountain slopes after hundreds of years. Below, the Urubamba River ripples past, partially obscured by the cloud forest that settles over us at this high altitude. Along the way, the women tell me about medicinal plants and native birds. We peer intently at the sky for a glimpse of the Andean condor, a rare species and the largest bird of prey in the world.

I learn so much from the women leading us, and the long journey to Machu Picchu is definitely worth it. Peering at the citadel through the Sun Gate, or Inti Punku, at sunset is a privilege earned by those who walk in the footsteps of the Incas. Suddenly, I understand why Espinoza has embarked on this journey countless times.

“After so many years, I still enjoy walking,” she says. “I am happy believing that time has not passed. I know that it is not me who will decide to stop trekking the Inca Trail, but life will tell me when it’s time. In the meantime, if I can return, I will continue to take the opportunity and won’t let it go.”

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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An Insider’s Guide to the Best Skiing On Earth https://artfulliving.com/japan-skiing-insiders-guide-2025/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:08:23 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52372 Years ago, when I was working as a carpenter, my boss once told me, “Never make an important cut at the end of the day.” The idea, of course, is that one should think twice before doing anything with high consequence when tired or operating at less than 100%. I had never forgotten these sage […]

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Years ago, when I was working as a carpenter, my boss once told me, “Never make an important cut at the end of the day.” The idea, of course, is that one should think twice before doing anything with high consequence when tired or operating at less than 100%. I had never forgotten these sage words of wisdom. They floated through my mind this past winter as I stood atop Shiribetsu-dake, a 3,600-foot volcanic peak in Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan.

For the past five days, I’d been leading a group of American and Canadian skiers on what I call the “Japow Backcountry Ski Safari.” During that time, we had conspicuously avoided ski areas and lifts, preferring instead to earn our turns far from the madding crowds with special “alpine touring” bindings and removable “skins” that allowed us to walk uphill using our skis like snowshoes. We had already climbed and skied down Shiribetsu three times that day and barely crossed another track. But it was getting late, too late probably for what I was contemplating: a final run down a side of the mountain I had never skied before.

Photography by Mattias Fredriksson

To the north, Yotei-zan (6,227 feet), which bears an uncanny resemblance to Mount Fuji, rose from the snow-covered plains that surrounded us. Its upper slopes, where we had skied earlier in the week, were bathed in alpenglow, and a tiny plume of wind-blown snow billowed from its summit. I could feel the nip of that cold north wind on my nose. To the west, a dark bank of clouds was rolling over the town of Niseko where I hoped to soon be soaking in the mineral-rich waters of a local hot spring with a cold beer in hand. Considering the late hour and our fatigue, I knew my old boss would have told us to play it safe and ski down the way we had come up on the south side. But that slope was riddled with tracks; whereas here, on the shady north side of the peak, the snow was still virgin and untouched.

I looked at Karl, a professor from a university in New England. Fifty-something, he was the oldest in the group but also the best skier of the lot. “What do you think?” I asked him. Karl looked up from buckling his boots, his eyes barely visible through his amber goggle lens. Then he reached out with his ski pole and clinked it against mine. “Let’s do this,” he said. This was all I needed to hear. I signaled for him and the others to follow and without further discussion, I dropped into a forest of old-growth silver birch blanketed in waist-deep, untracked powder.

Like my clients, I had come to Japan in search of its famous powder skiing. I’d been hearing for years that Hokkaido was home to the best snow in the world. Its quality is so exceptional that it even has its own name: Japow (a combination of Japan and powder). And so, in 2017, I finally went to see what all the hype was about. Over the course of more than 25 years working as a certified mountain guide, my work had led me all over the world, from the Tetons to the Alps, from Patagonia to the Arctic to the Himalayas, but I had never found snow like that which greeted me in Hokkaido. Not even close.

Photography by Joel Bard

The key to Japow is a warm ocean current known as the Tsushima that runs northward up the Sea of Japan. Vapors rising from these warm waters are picked up by cold westerlies blowing in from Siberia, which forms dense storm clouds. When all of this pent-up moisture runs into Hokkaido’s mountains, it’s released in the form of snow. Exact numbers for snowfall totals are hard to come by, but I’ve driven up mountain roads where I had to crane my neck to even see the top of the snowbanks. In Niseko, a mega ski resort that has been called the “Aspen of Japan,” they routinely record 50 feet of snow in winter. Where Vail, Colorado, or Whistler, Canada, might get a storm once a week, in Hokkaido it snows most days, and it’s rare to wake up in the morning without the mountains having had a refresh overnight. What this means for a skier is that virtually every day is a Japow day. And for people like me who live for skiing untracked snow, Hokkaido is quite simply the promised land.

Of course, Japan is a long way from North America. From most cities in the U.S., it’s two days of flying and tickets tend to average about $1,500 to $2,000. Add in 14 hours of jet lag from, say, Minnesota, and it’s easy to question if it’s really worth all the expense and hassle to travel halfway around the world just to ski. And truth be told, if it was just about the snow, one trip might be enough to check that box and take those bragging rights for the next time Japow comes up in the lift line. But, of course, the “Land of the Rising Sun” has so much more to offer than just stellar dendrites.

A visit to Japan will always be about immersing oneself in a spirit of collectivism and respect for one’s elders. In Nippon, as the Japanese call their country, social cohesion is valued above all else. Coming from a deeply divided country like the United States, I was taken by Japan’s emphasis on aesthetics, orderliness and extreme courtesy — all while maintaining a strict adhesion to ancient customs. Visiting there makes you feel like you’ve traveled back in time to a bygone era that has long since been lost in the West.

Photography by Syuzo Tsushima

Perhaps nowhere are these traditions and aesthetics more fully on display than in the ancient Japanese onsen (hot springs) tradition, which dates back to the sixth century when Buddhism introduced communal bathing as a way to promote purification and healing. Historically, most Japanese homes did not have private baths. Instead, each town had a central public bathhouse called a sento where townspeople would gather to soak together in geothermal waters. Today, life still revolves around the sento (a man-made public bath made with mineral-rich heated tap water) and onsen (a natural hot spring used for communal bathing). Each day, on our way home from our ski tours, we would stop at a different bath, where we’d partake in this ancient tradition. Most public baths are segregated by sex, and clothing is not allowed. After showering at small wash stands, we would move from one hot spring pool to the next, both inside and outside, all varying temperatures, while alternating between cold plunges and a sauna. Guests frequently comment about how effective these healing soaks are at washing away lactic acid in sore muscles, almost akin to the results of a long sports massage. Costs are small, typically $4 to $8 per person.

After all this, you’re going to be hungry, which leads to the very best part about travel in Japan: the cuisine. Besides sushi, sashimi and more types of noodles than I knew existed — beyond ramen, there was udon (thick wheat noodles), soba (buckwheat noodles) and somen (thin wheat noodles usually served cold). A typical dining experience in a resort town like Niseko might include tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet), onigiri (rice balls), or takoyaki (octopus balls). My personal favorite is shabu-shabu, which features cuts of thinly sliced meat and vegetables that you cook yourself over a bubbling, broth-filled hot pot right at your table. In Japanese, shabu-shabu means “swish-swish,” which is the sound the meat makes when you drop it into the bubbling pot. Washed down with a cold Sapporo or Asahi “Dry” beer, or even better, with a tokkuria (ceramic vessel) of cold sake, there is simply nothing better in this world after a long day of skiing. Between all the energy you’ll be burning on the hill and the Japanese concept of “hara hachi bu,” a philosophy centered on mindful eating — 80% of satiation is the target — you’re likely to go home a fitter, more healthy version of yourself.

But no, I wasn’t thinking about any of this as I swooped down through that forest on Shiribetsu. The trees were tight at first, but after a few hundred feet they opened up, and as I gazed downslope through a haze of flying powder, I noticed that the day’s last beams of sunshine had lit the slope aglow, its surface scintillating as if strewn with a million tiny diamonds. My thighs burned, but a little voice inside my head whispered don’t stop now! A quick glance over my shoulder showed Karl, closely followed by the others, lacing a perfect figure eight in my track.

And that’s how the day ended, with the four of us floating down through that magical forest like feathers dancing on the invisible hands of the wind, the only sounds the swish-swish of our skis through the untracked snow and the cries of pure joy, heard by no one but us, that echoed across the mountainside — as we reveled in the best skiing on Earth.

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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Inside Palazzo Fiuggi, Europe’s Most Exclusive Medispa https://artfulliving.com/palazzo-fiuggi-italy-wellness-spa/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:07:47 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52316 In the 16th century, the legendary artist and architect Michelangelo traveled hours from Rome to the village of Fiuggi in search of relief from the pain of chronic kidney stones. For centuries, popes and nobles also made the trip for “the cure;” it’s said that the healing qualities in the water come from rain being […]

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In the 16th century, the legendary artist and architect Michelangelo traveled hours from Rome to the village of Fiuggi in search of relief from the pain of chronic kidney stones. For centuries, popes and nobles also made the trip for “the cure;” it’s said that the healing qualities in the water come from rain being enriched as it passes through the roots of the area’s thick chestnut forests. Today, thanks to the recent opening of the luxurious medicinal health retreat Palazzo Fiuggi, wellness pilgrimages to this rural town continue. However, now it’s much easier: The drive from Rome is only an hour. And the accommodations are decidedly more deluxe: The property, an art deco–style villa with 102 rooms and suites, is set on a hilltop within 8.5 acres of private grounds, gardens and woodlands. Although it’s a medical spa staffed with multiple trained doctors, the interiors are palatial. Guests dine in a grand space with a glass ceiling, crystal chandeliers and frescos; long, white marble hallways lead to indoor fountains. And a 4,000-square-foot gym is housed in what was once a majestic ballroom.

Photography by Tyson Sadlo

Before you arrive, consultants discuss your goals. There is no set schedule unless you want one; guests can stay three days or sign up for one of several programs, from detox to medical, where you can opt to get an ultrasound of your organs, try a vitamin infusion or test out the latest cryotherapy machine. Palazzo Fiuggi also offers a popular longevity program, a version of which Oprah Winfrey experienced and wrote about in 2023, calling it the “best wellness retreat of her life.”

As a working mother of three, life for me was consistently challenging. And the last few months of work travel and unhealthy eating — while battling perimenopause — had taken its toll, so I decided to sign up for a four-day detox.

Photography by Tyson Sadlo

Shortly after being escorted to my spacious suite — which featured an attached study, a lavish, king-sized bed covered in ivory Italian linens and a vast marble bathroom with a deep bathtub — I was brought to the ground floor spa reception area. There, the resident doctor administered several tests to assess the state of my health. Although my body mass index, or B.M.I., was standard, my body fat percentage was slightly above average for my age, putting me at risk.

To alleviate the stress caused by my less-than-perfect results, the doctor sent me to soak in three mineral-and-salt-enriched pools within a light-filled room composed of floor-to-ceiling glass windows. The spa recommends that guests spend 30 minutes here daily to calm their nerves and help boost their immune system.

Photography by Tyson Sadlo

My recommended daily calorie intake was about 1,800 calories but they told me I would temporarily be put on a 1,500-calorie diet to jumpstart weight loss. Fortunately, with the three Michelin–star chef Heinz Beck (based in Rome at the legendary La Pergola) curating the healthy menus at Palazzo Fiuggi, I didn’t suffer any sense of deprivation. With rare extra time on his hands during the COVID epidemic, Beck tells me he spent days working with the property’s lead doctor, Professor David Della Morte Canosci, to devise recipes that combined all the necessary nutrients with Michelin-star flavors — and little to no unhealthy fats. For breakfast, I ate porridge with honey and blueberry jam and yogurt topped with wild berries. At lunch, I nibbled on a beautifully spiced grilled cauliflower and pumpkin gnocchi with spinach cream or roasted artichokes and zucchini followed by a flavorful minestrone soup. Dinner was a wholesome but savory affair: a filet of sea bass served with carrots and parsnip or amberjack sashimi on a curried red quinoa. “Over several months, I created over 900 recipes for Palazzo Fiuggi,” Beck tells me, adding that he has long been interested in how certain foods can combat inflammation and disease. “My computer is not just filled with recipes but also the latest scientific research.”

Photography provided by Palazzo Fuigi

Every day, I took at least two movement classes. After just 20 minutes on the Icaros Virtual Reality machine — a high-tech device that worked muscles I didn’t even know I had — I felt like I had completed an Ironman marathon. During my stay at the Palazzo, I slept hard, averaging 10 hours a night. My days were filled with pampering treatments, including a lifting facial massage that I swear took years off my face. I spent several tranquil hours daily relaxing on a comfy lounge chair in the glass-enclosed pool house. But perhaps the most incredible luxury of my four days at Palazzo Fiuggi was that I spoke to virtually no one except the friendly technicians, trainers and servers and only allowed myself to be on my phone for an hour a day. By the time my detox retreat was over, I felt physically and mentally lighter (I had lost three pounds). I was ready — indeed inspired — to return to everyday life, committed to my new and improved wellness routine. The “cure” had worked miracles.

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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Uncovering the Real Ernest Hemingway in Ketchum, Idaho https://artfulliving.com/ernest-hemingway-ketchum-idaho-adventure/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:07:14 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52228 I went to Ketchum to see what remained of Ernest Hemingway in the place where the Nobel laureate ended his life. Though the author is often associated with Spain, Paris, Key West and Cuba, Hemingway is perpetually located in Ketchum, his last residence and final resting place. I found his legacy there very much alive. […]

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I went to Ketchum to see what remained of Ernest Hemingway in the place where the Nobel laureate ended his life. Though the author is often associated with Spain, Paris, Key West and Cuba, Hemingway is perpetually located in Ketchum, his last residence and final resting place. I found his legacy there very much alive.

Photography provided by John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum

When Hemingway arrived in 1939, Ketchum was merely a crossroads, a mining town anchored by a handful of saloons moonlighting as casinos. He came with Martha Gellhorn while still married to his second wife, Pauline. They stayed at the Sun Valley Lodge, a mile north, where the owners of the country’s first destination ski resort offered celebrities like Hemingway free lodging in exchange for the publicity they brought. He worked on For Whom the Bell Tolls in the mornings, hunted in the afternoons with friends he quickly made among the locals and fell in love with the countryside, which reminded him of Spain.

He returned twice with Martha, whom he had eventually married, and after World War II with Mary Welsh Hemingway, his fourth wife. In 1959, Ernest and Mary bought a house in Ketchum on a hillside above the Big Wood River from Bob Topping, a playboy who, the story goes, built the concrete structure painted to look like a log cabin in the style of Sun Valley Lodge to spite its management for kicking him out. The house had very modern amenities for the times, such as a movie projector with a screen that dropped out of the living room ceiling, a television with a remote control, air conditioning and double Thermador ovens. Huge picture windows provided stunning views of the surrounding mountain ranges on three sides.

It was there, in the front foyer, that Hemingway shot himself on July 2, 1961.

Photography provided by Mary and Ernest Hemingway House and Preserve Collection. Photos used with permission from Hemingway, Ltd.

My first stop was the Casino, a windowless, working man’s bar with low wooden beam ceilings. Hemingway played the slots and drank at the Casino. “He used to sit in the corner there,” the bartender told me, confirmed by photos on the walls. The Casino’s antithesis across Main Street, Whiskey on Main (formerly Whiskey Jacques), is a cheerful bar and eatery with high ceilings and large windows. They used to say, “You go to Whiskey Jacques for a cocktail and a show; you go to the Casino for a shot and a fight.” Hemingway visited Whiskey on Main when it was the Alpine Restaurant for the “sizzlin’ steak” (inch-thick sirloins served with potatoes and coleslaw for $1.25).

Nowadays, Hemingway likely wouldn’t recognize Ketchum, which has grown to eight square blocks and become a collection of boutique shops, yoga studios, ski rental outlets and real estate offices. The building where Pete Lane’s General Store anchored the crossroads of Main Street and Sun Valley Road for decades now houses Enoteca, an upscale restaurant that serves duck confit with risotto and wood-fired pizzas in a long, narrow brick-walled space. Since Lane’s catered to the Basque shepherds who had populated the area after World War II — a sign painted on the back of the building still reads “Eat More Lamb – It’s Delicious.” — I ordered the lamb chops, which were, indeed, delicious: tender and cooked to perfection.

Though chic, brick sidewalks have replaced the town’s former wooden planks, Ketchum retains its casual Western roots. When I called the Sawtooth Club to ask if it had a dress code (I had only packed two pairs of jeans), the host laughed. The place is rustic, with wooden tables and a moose head above the entry, but it serves decent food (I tried the jambalaya). The Sawtooth trades on its Hemingway connection, marketing a Hunter Thompson quote (“He could sit in the Sawtooth Club and talk with men who felt the same way he did about life . . .”), yet when I asked the young waitress about Hemingway, all she knew about him was the photo hanging by the fireplace (depicting the author in Key West, not Ketchum).

Photography provided by The Community Library Center for Regional History Donald Snoddy and Ralph Burrell Collection Photos used with permission from Hemingway Ltd

Three of the Basque restaurants Hemingway frequented — the Rio Club, the Idaho Club and the Tram — are long gone, but his favorite restaurant in town, Christiania, remains, now called Michel’s Christiania. The stone A-frame with booth-to-ceiling windows looks up Bald Mountain, known to locals as “Baldy.” (When I skied it one morning, I was pleased to find a run named “Hemingway,” though he did not ski in Idaho.) An enormous chandelier hangs above tables draped in white cloth and lit with oil lamps. Here, Hemingway ate his last meal, a rare New York steak and, most likely, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I sat at the same table, a corner booth in the back. In memory of Hemingway as a trout fisherman and because the waiter told me that the nearby Buhl River supplies 75% of the country’s trout, I ordered the trout à la meunière with couscous, green beans and baked tomato. It was excellent. So were the crêpes with locally foraged morel mushrooms in a sherry cream sauce. Over dinner, I pondered how Hemingway — sitting in that same booth — felt about what he planned to do the following day.

Sun Valley Lodge was overhauled a mile down the road in 2015. Hemingway’s room, No. 206 — he nicknamed it “Glamour House” — has moved to No. 228 and now features a bronze statue of the writer at his typewriter. The Ram restaurant, which Hemingway mentions in his short story “The Shot,” has retained its Austrian ambiance and recently featured a Hemingway Hasenpfeffer on its heritage menu. (Ironic because Hemingway shot hundreds of rabbits to relieve farmers of the pests but did not like to eat them.) Up the road, Trail Creek Cabin looks very much like it did when Hemingway partied there, tossing an olive into the mouth of his friend Gary Cooper on one occasion and passing New Year’s Eve with Ingrid Bergman on another.

Mary Hemingway willed the hillside house in Ketchum to the Nature Conservancy, and it is now managed by the Community Library, which has a vast Hemingway collection of books, letters and photos in its regional history center. The house has been restored to the way it was when Hemingway lived — and died — there. It is closed to the public but open to private tours. I spent more than two hours inside, reconstructing in my mind scenes of Hemingway watching the Friday night boxing matches with friends and the days he struggled with the manuscript published posthumously as A Moveable Feast.

Photo by Lloyd Arnold/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

It seems everyone in Ketchum has a story to tell about Hemingway. The retired gentleman eating lunch next to me at the Bigwood Bread Bakery & Cafe who had given tours of the Hemingway house told me with mischievous delight about the Playboy magazines he imagined Hemingway perused. (Doubtful. The magazines in the home have been added as props.) A librarian who grew up with Hemingway’s granddaughters told me in a conspiratorial whisper that the gun Hemingway used to shoot himself had been buried about 30 miles south of town. (Possible. I heard competing theories about the gun’s fate.)

The best stories came from a 70-year-old realtor named Jed Gray, whose parents had befriended the author. Hemingway often made his rounds of the town in the afternoon, stopping at the post office and drugstore before driving out to the Gray house, not far from the Sun Valley Lodge, for his daily walk. Jed often accompanied him along the remote dirt road by Ruud Mountain, where Sun Valley installed the nation’s first chair lift, and Hemingway went to watch the annual ski races in the spring before his death. Today, the chairlift no longer runs, and the paved road resembles a subdivision lined with houses.

One evening at the Gray house, when Jed was sick, the author read to him from The Old Man and the Sea. Another evening, they watched the television debut of A Farewell to Arms. During a commercial break, Hemingway decided it was time to teach the two Gray boys and another youth how to drink red wine from a bota. He encouraged them to hold the wineskin at arm’s length. “We all got wet,” Jed says.

Photography by Bettmann

At the Ketchum cemetery on the edge of town, Hemingway’s grave is marked by a flat granite slab beneath two large pine trees. Pilgrims leave bottles of whiskey, cans of beer and coins scattered across his gravestone. The day I visited, there was also a letter written by a fan along with a framed 5-by-7-inch shot of the view from Hemingway’s Cuba home.

On my way out of town, I wanted to see the Hemingway Memorial beside Trail Creek about a mile and a half up Sun Valley Road from the resort. I had trouble finding it so I stopped to ask directions from a woman walking three dogs. Celebrity sightings are not unusual in the area, where you might spot Clint Eastwood driving his battered pickup or Reese Witherspoon on a chairlift. Serendipitously, the woman turned out to be Mariel Hemingway, the author’s granddaughter. She pleasantly directed me to the site.

The memorial features a bronze bust of Hemingway; his gaze permanently fixed across the valley (now the seventh fairway of the Sun Valley Golf Course) toward the hills. It is inscribed with words he wrote for a Ketchum friend killed in a hunting accident that he may as well have written about himself: “Best of all he loved the fall/The leaves yellow on the cottonwoods/Leaves floating on the trout streams/And above the hills the high blue windless sky/Now he will be part of them forever.”

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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The Most Stylish Global Destinations According to David Coggins https://artfulliving.com/david-coggins-global-style-destinations-2025/ Thu, 09 Jan 2025 15:06:41 +0000 https://artfulliving.com/?p=52233 We travel to enjoy art and architecture, food and design. We can also learn a few things about how to dress. That’s why it’s fun to sit at a cafe or on a park bench and watch the locals pass by. I’m inspired when I see an older Italian gentleman cycling down the streets of […]

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We travel to enjoy art and architecture, food and design. We can also learn a few things about how to dress. That’s why it’s fun to sit at a cafe or on a park bench and watch the locals pass by. I’m inspired when I see an older Italian gentleman cycling down the streets of Florence while eating gelato. I love watching a Parisian man buy food in the market while wearing vivid burgundy corduroys. We can bring some of those good ideas back home with us. Yes, you can do some shopping — but the inspiration is free.

Here are some of my favorite stylish cities.


London: Enlightened Footsteps

There are many reasons Englishmen look great — they grew up dressing formally; it’s their native sartorial language. Nobody looks more natural in black tie. One thing I always notice in London is all the stellar shoe stores. That’s no surprise since great companies like Crockett & Jones and Edward Green have been in business in Northampton for over a century. Or you can go to the original John Lobb or George Cleverley and have shoes made right there. It’s a commitment — they begin by shaping a wooden last (or mold) that resembles your foot. Whether brogues, Oxfords or Chelsea boots, they can handle serious conditions and cobblestones, too. It’s great to be in a city where men don’t rely on an endless stream of sneakers.


Milan: Tailoring Fluency

Milan is sartorially conservative for an Italian city. But there are plenty of men who want to look dapper even in a business meeting. What we can learn here is the power of understated tailoring. Too often, the blue suit is a depressing default option. It’s what you get when you have your first interview, or when you start a new job you don’t like. But it doesn’t have to be that way! A well-tailored deep blue suit in a quality fabric flatters every man. Of course, you can veer from this recipe: What about a good cashmere sports coat and some gray flannel trousers? Now, this is a good equation. With the suede shoes you got in London, you’ll look great wherever you are.


Artful Living | The Most Stylish Global Destinations According to David Coggins

Illustration by Hilbrand Bos

Paris: Ambitious Accessories

Years ago, I was in Paris on one of the first cool days of fall. I wanted to wear a scarf but didn’t want to appear overeager. I need not have worried. The men strolling around the Luxembourg Gardens and down the Rue Jacob were way ahead of me. Scarves of every color were on display: ochre, aubergine, moss, plum. And these scarves were draped and wrapped with such care. It was a reminder, if any was needed, that accessories are an easy way to bring pleasure and a sense of festivity to anything you wear. Though you don’t want to bring everything back with you — if you get the urge to buy a beret, try to resist it.


Tokyo: Global Thinking

Japanese men know a good thing when they see it, regardless of where it’s from. They embrace American denim, Italian tailoring and English shoes. The sense of curiosity is always inspiring. They also love to shop. Not surprisingly, many of the best men’s stores in the world are in Tokyo, from Beams to Isetan to United Arrows. These buyers seek out the smartest knits, outerwear, luggage and tailoring worldwide, bringing it back to Japan for an eager audience. In many cases, the Japanese improve on the original (which is why Japanese denim now sets the standard). I love the way all these elements are reinterpreted on many of the men I see in Tokyo. The lesson is: If something looks good and is well-made, it doesn’t matter where it comes from.


New York City: Fearless Confidence

I live in New York City and am accustomed to crowded streets. There aren’t as many men in suits these days, which is probably fine for most people, but it is still a little sad for me. The city is full of people rushing to where they need to go. That confidence can be charismatic. If you don’t believe in what you’re doing (or wearing), then nobody’s going to do it on your behalf. They say if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere, and that’s what you expect a New Yorker to say! Whether that’s true or not, the spirit remains. Many of the best-dressed men bring self-assurance to what they wear. I didn’t know you were allowed to wear that, you ask. Well, when you dress in a way that’s true to yourself, you can get away with more than you think.

A Minnesotan turned New Yorker, David Coggins is the author of the New York Times bestseller Men and Style and writes a column for Artful Living.

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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